FAQs/Commissions

General FAQ

Q: What are raw dice?

A: Raw dice means they are fresh from the mold and not sanded or polished. This means there are some rough edges around the lowest face and possibly some scuffs from the mold. If you've seen some of my demolding video, that is what the dice look like right out of the mold. Still shiny, but not "finished"

Q: Do you do commissions?

A: I do sometimes! I have a commission form here if you'd like to request a commission.

Q: How much are your dice?

A: A standard set of finished dice is $225 currently. This can change depending on the complexity of the design or the cost of supplies used. A raw set of dice is usually about $150.

Q: Why are they so expensive? 

A: Handmade dice are all completely crafted by hand. This is the reason they are a lot more expensive than mass produced dice. This is the general process that goes into making dice.

3D model the dice (master), support and 3D print, sand and polish the master, make a mold of the master, pour in the resin and make the design (make orb if it's a liquid core), sand and polish the finished design, ink the dice. All of these steps takes weeks and weeks of time, skilled labor, and specialized equipment.


Q: How do you get rid of bubbles?

A: I use a pressure pot! This is not the same as a pressure cooker or vacuum chamber. It's a pot filled with pressure made specifically for resin casting. The one I used is linked in my bio under Dicemaking Supplies.


Q: Where do you get your dice molds?
A: I make them myself! I offer molds for sale on my site here.

Q: How do you make your dice molds? 
A: I have a few videos on social media on how I make them! I use the mold housing and MoonKey that I designed and that makes it a lot easier. Those can also be found for purchase under Dicemaking Supplies.


Q: What tools are needed to get started making dice/what is the cost?
A: At minimum you need PPE (A respirator, nitrile gloves, and proper ventilation,) resin, pigments, and a dice mold. These are great for starting out and practicing. These are around $200 total.

If you want to up your dice game you will need:

  • Respirator - $40
  • Nitrile gloves - $20
  • Pressure pot - $300
  • Dice mold - $120
  • Pigments and dyes - $20 to $100+
  • Cups - $15
  • Stir sticks - $10
  • Sand paper - $30
  • Polishing compound - $30
  • Dremel - $50
  • Buffing wheels - $20
  • Microfiber clothes - $15
  • Acrylic paint for inking - $10
(If you choose to make your own molds):
  • Master dice - $120
  • Silicone - $60
  • Mold housing - $38
  • Transfer tape - $10
  • Clamps - $10
    That totals to about $1000 for just the required stuff. We all know you'll spend 1k on pigments alone ;)

Q: What resin do you use?
A: I have a dice supplies Amazon link in my bio to some of the supplies I use! I use a few different resins for different effects. 


Overall it's personal preference on what resin will be best for you!

Dice Balance

The only dice that are 100% balanced are casino grade dice. The good news is, you don't need D&D dice to be 100% balanced. Although handmade dice are much more balanced than factory made dice, it's all about the randomness of the rolls. The way you roll/throw your dice will have a much bigger effect on the randomness than balance ever will.

None of my dice are weighted and they all roll randomly. Pigments, colorants, etc do not weigh enough to have any effect on the weight of the dice. Any inclusions I use are usually made out of resin itself or have a similar density to resin so they cannot cause the dice to be weighted.

Lastly, please be kind and try to refrain from asking dicemakers if their dice are balanced, or telling us that they aren't. It is quite the faux pas. We have spent a lot of time perfecting our skills and know what we're doing!

Overall, balance is not something you'll have to worry about with handmade dice. 

 

Raw Dice Finishing Guide:

I use cap molds for my dice so in general this means there is less work in finishing.
Please try to use gloves and a mask when sanding. You don't want to breath in any resin dust.

Items needed:
-3m polishing papers
-mask
-gloves
-water
-microfiber towel
-acrylic paint
-small paint brush

• Sanding : For the most part, just the edges of the lowest face need to be sanded. Be sure to wet your papers before starting. Start with the dark green paper and very lightly sand the rough edges. Work in circles and keep even pressure. Once the edges are no longer rough, move up in color on the papers. (Be sure to check the correct order on the package) For every color after the green, spend about 30 seconds on each edge before moving on to the next color. Wipe off residue as you go. Once you reach the white paper on all your edges, you are done!

• Inking : Acrylic ink works best. Pick your favorite color and a tiny brush and apply the paint into the numbers. Use your finger or a wipe to wipe away the excess. Once the numbers have dried you can go back and wipe off any residual paint that will likely get on the face of the die.